Clark Hall Iron Doors

Florida Code Installation

Professional Installation is Required to Validate Warranty

Bucking Requirements available at

Tools needed: Level, drill, screwdriver, chop saw, caulk gun, grinder, file

Supplies needed (not provided): shims, black or bronze polyurethane caulk, 3-in-One oil, emery cloth, 3" long #12 screws for attaching the threshold strikeplate.

Door arrival: The door, jamb and installation kit will be shipped in a wood crate. The jamb will have temporary shipping rods at the bottom. DO NOT REMOVE THE SHIPPING RODS UNTIL STEP 9.

1. Make sure you have a rough opening at least 1 inch wider and ½" taller than the door or according to your local building code specs.

2. Make sure the floor is level; the bottom of both jamb legs must be level. A roll of vinyl water proofing or pan flashing is recommended under the threshold and behind the jamb or waterproof to your local building code specs.

3. Install the jamb, setting it in the center of the opening level and plumb. Make sure you set it 1/2" or 5/8" into the room making allowance for the interior dry wall. Set top and bottom lags in both jamb legs leaving all the other lag locations until doors are installed and set.

4. For Inswing Doors Only - Attach the sweep onto the bottom of the door. Use silicone and self-tapping screws. Cut sweep to length and bore it for the throw bolt on the passive door. Lipped edge goes to the inside. Hint: It works best to keep sweeps ¼" longer towards the middle of the doors to help seal the bottom between the doors. The sweeps will overlap some.

5. Inject one shot of 3-in-One oil into the nipples of all hinges. Coat both male and female parts of the hinges.


6. Insert ball bearing provided into the male part of the hinges and with at least two people and the door at 90 degrees set the door into the receiving hinge on the door jamb - male into female.

7. Secure and shim the other lag locations on the jamb leaving an even reveal around the door and down the center where the two doors meet (you may need to shim the top of the door to spread the jamb). Note: Doors need to meet, top, center and bottom at the same time. Adjust jambs accordingly.

8. Once doors are set properly, remove temporary shipping rods. Temporary shipping rods are bolted on to the bottom of the jamb

9. Cut threshold to length and slide in under the door stop. Permanently set threshold. Caulk under and at ends of threshold.

10. Bore a hole for the top and bottom throw bolts. Make sure not to bore too large of a hole or the doors may rattle. A graduated drill bit works best for this step.

11. Install strike plate to threshold aligning throw bolt holes on threshold and strike plate. Attach strike plate using 3" long #12 screws.

12. Install the q-lon weather stripping into the kerf of the jamb and astragal.

13. Apply the self-adhesive weather stripping to the glass doors. Remove the tape and set the gasket (fat side toward the outside edge) mitering the corners. Be sure not to stretch the gasket or it will shrink. More gasket material can be obtained at any hardware store.

14. Install the glass doors. You may need to adjust the receiver for the glass door cam latch to make sure it is not too loose or too tight. Don't force the latch or it will break.

15. Install your hardware as per manufacturer's specs. Remove any excess bondo in all of the mortised holes and holes for hardware. We have provided an adjustable strike plate and hole plugs. Hardware: Standard bore on the iron doors is 2 ¾" backset, 2 1/8" holes 5 ½" center to center. Do not use lever handles, as it will interfere with the operation of the glass doors.

Our Elite iron doors are 2" thick so you will need to request an extension kit with your hardware choice for 2" doors.

16. Wash the door with a very mild soap and water solution (e.g. baby shampoo). Do not use any cleaners with Ammonia. Touch up the door where needed with the touch up paint provided.

Considerations for Replacing an Existing Door:

If doors are installed using lag bolts through the jamb rather than tabs you can usually leave the interior casing intact and pull the existing door away from the casing to the outside. Remember to cut the paint or caulk with a knife around the interior of the casing so as not to damage it.

We normally recommend replacing the brick molding with PVC brick mold. If you have arched brick molding on the top of the door, remove it carefully, as it can often be salvaged, cleaned, painted and fauxed to match the door. For matching brick molding paint with the base black paint (Krylon flat or semi flat works well) and let dry. Using gin cloth and medium reducer mixture apply faux to match the door using a gin cloth and medium reducer mixture described in our finishing instructions.

Install the brick mold and caulk the perimeter. (Use painters tape to protect the finish of your door before caulking)

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